An Electrolux induction cooktop heats only when it senses a magnetic pan sitting on the zone. If the zone blinks, beeps or turns itself off, the cause is often the pan or its position, and you can test that with a little patience.
Start with the pan
Try a refrigerator magnet on the underside of the pot. If it does not stick firmly, induction cannot heat it. Aluminum, glass and some stainless pots fail this test.
- Center the pan over the ring drawn on the glass.
- Use a pan base that roughly matches the size of the zone. A tiny pan on a big zone may go unnoticed.
- Make sure the base is flat. A warped pan rocks and loses contact.
Check the glass and the controls
Spilled liquid or a damp cloth on the touch controls can make the cooktop ignore input or lock a zone. Wipe the panel dry, wait a minute and try again. If a control lock light is on, release it using the steps in your use and care guide.
Signs that point beyond the pan
These need a closer look:
- An error code that comes back with every pan you try.
- One zone works and another never does.
- The whole cooktop shuts off after a few minutes.
- Clicking or a burning smell near the glass.
An error code gives us a starting point, yet it never names the part on its own. Zones can share a power board, and a sensing problem on one zone can look like a dead zone. Before we name the cause, we run the zone with a pan we know is good.
Older cooktops
Many induction cooktops in Houston kitchens are 8 to 15 years old. We repair them, and we will tell you plainly if a cracked glass top or a failed control board makes replacement the better choice. Glass that is cracked cannot be repaired, so stop using a cracked cooktop right away.
Our Electrolux cooktop repair page lists the zone and control problems we handle. Call us or send the contact form, tell us what the display shows, and we will offer an arrival window of 9 a.m. to noon, 1 to 4 p.m., or 4 to 7 p.m. Nothing starts until you have approved the quoted repair cost on paper.